Oh, the places you'll go...

...on public transporation. This is a bit late, considering I'm already home, but so exciting things happened at the end of my trip that I wanted to add. I started this in Spain and now I'm finally finishing it up.

Here is a lovely shot of my makeshift workstation. This is where you can find me whenever it's rainy. I don't have a desk in my room so I bought i TV dinner table from a china bazaar. It looks a bit wierd, but it gets the job done.

Now that the weather is so nice, it's a bit hard to stay in the room and capture footage. I try to save it for rainy days so I can go and film and explore when it's sunny. We finally got some beautiful weather so I got some great footage of the mountains and the ocean. Tomorrow, if the weather's good, I'm going to the other side of the city to try my luck at filming on another Mount that I haven't explored yet.

I just recently discovered the wonderous Cercanias. It's somewhere between the train and the metro. You buy tickets like you would a metro, but it runs on the train lines. It only goes to towns around San Sebastian, but it's perfect for my purposes. You can buy train tickets to some towns that cost 12 euros  oneway and you can buy Cercanias tickets to the same place for 3 euros roundtrip. I have now used Cercanias 4 times in the last week and I'm hoping to have a few more goes before my trips done. 

Since I've found Cercanias, I've been traveling out of the city quite often. I found out about an open air market in a nearby town that has been going on once a week since the 12th century. The other day I took the train over to check it out. I got there so early (7:30am) that the people were still setting up. I stopped in a bakery to get some bread and it was so hot it steamed when I ripped it. I am telling you there is no better breakfast than a fresh hot baguette. Whoever came up with that sliced bread saying was crazy.

Not only is the market a very old tradition, it is still important to this day. The prices in the market in Ordizia set the prices for the rest of the country. I don't know exactly how it works, though. I was kind of expecting to see a bunch of old farmers coming together to discuss the supply and demand of the market, but I saw no such thing. What I did see was a rather small market under a grand, Romanesque roof with huge pillars. I filmed a lot and then got to try a lot of the food. I am a big fan of the Basque cheese.
(this photo is from Mt. Igeldo looking down on San Sebastian)

I also got to visit Salamanca, where I studied abroad. My foreign mentor, Javier, was my cinema professor when I studied in Salamanca. He and his girlfriend, who is from San Sebastian, came here for a few days to visit their family. I got to hitch a ride with them to Salamanca when they went home. I was concerned I would get carsick on the ride (5-6 hours long), but I had no problem. We drove through the tall mountains of Basque country. They are really distinct from the ones in NH in that they have much steeper slopes and many precarious pastures scattered around them. The mountains also stop quite abruptly on the edge of the opens plains of the center of Spain. You don't see such expansive land in NH. It was really beautiful.

In Salamanca I got to hit up all my favorite spots. I went to my favorite cafe for chocolate con churros and walked all around the city remembering everything I did last time I was there. I instantly felt like I was back at home. When I went out at night I even ran into 3 of my friends from Salamanca at one bar! How crazy is that?

I really had a blast walking down memory lane in Salamanca, but I also had a great opportunity to sit down with Javier and talk about my documentary. We looked at a lot of my footage and discussed possible storylines. I still think there are a few perspectives that I haven't been able to get in my documentary, but I'm pretty excited about what I have. Javier liked the footage and helped me brainstorm a few different ways to present it. Hopefully I can get some of the other perspectives within the next week. 

After Salamanca I've been running around all over the place. There was a Basque fiesta in town that lasted a few days. It was for Saint Carmen, who I'm assuming is the patron saint of crabs because the entire fiesta was covered with crab drawings. I got to film children performing at the fiesta and people cooking sardines, but no one would let me interview them. I asked a few people and they either pretended not to understand me or would talk to me, but not in front of a camera. It's too bad because the people I talked to were much more pro-independence. At all of the fiestas there are tons of independence posters and other Basque political posters. At fiesta de Carmen the people I talked to pointed them out and explained that even though this is a celebration, they need to remember that they are still fighting. Hopefully I can find someone who is willing to say that to a camera.

In the meantime, I'm still getting other great material. I read about this small fishing village, Pasaia, 10 minutes from San Sebastian and on the Cercanias line. The other day I went there to check it out. The train dropped me off right in a huge industrial port. It was really ugly. I tried looking for an easy way to get to the other side of the port and soon realized that I would have to walk all the way across town lugging my camera equipment. When I got there I realized that the place I wanted to get to was on the other side of port. I was about to call it quits and go home when I realized that there was a little water taxi that takes you from my side of the port to the pretty little town that I wanted to explore. I'm so glad that I made it there. The old, beautiful part of Pasaia is only a few streets and it is secluded from the rest of the city. It's right on the water and has a path that weaves along the edge of the mountains to the ocean. It's has much more Euskera than San Sebastian. Everyone in the streets speaks Euskera. It was really cool to see that 10 minutes away from San Sebastian these people are very different from their urban neighbors.
Another adventure I've had recently was a bike trip through the Valley of Leizaran. It used to be a train track, but they converted it to a dirt road for pedestrians. I rented a bike for the day, put the camera on my back and took the train to the town of Andoain. The only thing I knew was that I was looking for this valley, but there were no directions at the train station. I had to ask a lot of people to get directions, but I was amazed at how helpful they all were. Spaniards can often look intimidating because it is not customary for them to acknowledge or smile at strangers on the street. Yet when I asked them for help, they were more than willing. People in stores will even come outside so they can point out things to you to make sure you understand.
One of the interviews I did a while back was with Xabier Mendiguren, the president of a big network of organizations that promote Euskera in all parts of Basque Country. He suggested I visit the town where he was born (in a house from the 16th century) and meet his brother, Iñaki. I was supposed to take a train last weekend, but when I spoke with Iñaki he suggested I come another day when he could pick me up from the train station because his town is very rural and has no public transportation. He called me 2 days later to tell me what train to take and where he would pick me up. I thought he would just drop me off at the house which now has a museum built next to it. Instead he took the time to tour me through the whole museum. He explained the history of how the Basque houses in the region used to be built around GIANT cider mills. The  size of the cider mills determined the size of the house because the mill was the frame of the house. That's how big they were. Iñaki also showed me that most houses were expanded on 3 sides to provide space for drying Indian Corn which became popular after Columbus returned from the Americas. After going through the museum he took me to the house and explained what it was like when he lived there and what everything was for. He told me that the animals were treated like family and lived in the house on the same floor as the family. There were even windows into the kitchen so the cows could look in on the family from their stalls.

After the house we went to Iñaki's current house which was right on top of the same hill. His brother lives on the bottom of the house, his old house is in the middle, him mother and sister live in the next house and he lives on the top. His house has a breathtaking 360 degree view of all the Basque farms and mountains in the area. I spent a long time taking with Iñaki and his wife, Sarah, from England. I got them do let me interview them together. I told them they could do it in whatever language they wanted and they chose to do the whole interview in English! I forgot my list of questions, but I had done enough interviews that I felt comfortable without them. I knew I didn't have many interviews left so I asked them about politics, conflict and ETA as well as questions about their identity. It was a different perspective because Iñaki was born Basque and spoke it as his first language, but Sarah learned Euskera and became Basque. They were very open with me and gave me great information for the film.

After the interview they invited me to stay for dinner. We sat out on their porch watching the sunset, drinking wine and eating salad and bread--a very traditional small dinner. We talked about Basque culture, American politics, why Americans are fat and whether civilians should have guns. They were so interested in America and so eager to share their culture with me. I ended up leaving their house around 10 at night. I had expected them to take a hour out of their day to let me interview them and they took off half a day to show me around and entertain me.  I felt blessed by their incredible hospitality.
A few days after that interview I headed back to the US. I did some last minute filming of sunsets and sunrises, as well as filming graffiti and different attractions in the city. I have a lot of material to put in the interview, but I don't think I was able to get all perspectives on the issue. Yet the perspective I got is one that is not often represented in the media. The media focus on extreme nationalism and terrorism, but I spoke with a lot of people who feel strongly about their culture, but don't have impossible goals. They want to protect their language and culture. They don't want to feel ostracized in their own region. I am excited to form these opinions into a documentary. I will keep you updated on when the documentary will be finished and how you can see it.

Agur!

Hard at Work

Last week was such a whirlwind of interviews and activities, I'm trying to figure out how to write about it all without making it into a novella. On Monday, my friend Greta wanted to go up Mt. Igeldo. I hadn't brought my camera the last time I went, so I thought it would be a great idea. Marlee and I lugged the camera and tripod along the beach again (they only seem to get heavier as the trip goes on). This time we were smarter and took the fundicular up to the top. It was a 1.30 well spent. At the top of the mountain was a very sad amusement park. They had log rides, bumper cars, a house of terror and other rides, but there were only a few people there and none of them were their for the park. Everyone up there (all 7-10 people) was there for the view. We could look out over San Sebastian and all the mountains that surrounded it. Unfortunately, all the mountains were a bit hazey so we decided not to film. It's frustrating when you get somewhere beautiful, but the conditions aren't right to film. It's even more frustrating when you've been carrying a camera for 2 hours just to film it. But now I know it's completely worthwhile so the next cool, clear day I will go up and film.

On Tuesday, Marlee and I took a bus up to Igeldo (the neighborhood, not the mountain) because I had read that they had a number of other competitions like the lumberjack one that I filmed. We were supposed to go to a sidraria to film, but the events in Igeldo only happen once a year, so it was more of a priority. Unforunately, once again we got all the way there and couldn't film. This time it was because I had recorded the info incorrectly and the activities were on Wednesday, not Tuesday. 

Wednesday I woke up sick. I think it was from sharing a drink with Greta, who was sick, but she insists that that could not be the case. According the Greta, a very smart, 25 year old Italian, viruses cannot be spread through sharing drinks, though they can be spread through kissing. She actually claims that the wind on my bare throat got me sick. I think this is amazing! This is a great example of something that we take as common knowledge, but certainly is not. We learn in kindergarten that you can spread germs through things that you touch, but I guess that is not the case in Italy. I love these little reminders that even though globalization is making countries more and more similar, I am still in a place that thinks differently than I do and holds different facts to be self-evident.

So Wednesday I went to my first interview of the week with a bit of a cold. I wasn't feeling very up for it, but I had waited a month for the interview so I wasn't about to miss it. The interview was in the Gipuzkoa Delegation which is an old majestic building that looks out onto a beautifully manicured park with fountains and waterfalls and tons of blooming flowers. It is conveniently 3 blocks from my apartment so I get to see it all the time. This was the first time I got to enter the building. I was really excited to see what the inside was like. The first thing I notice was the security. They aren't messing around here. I had to talk to people at the front desk and then I had to explain what I was doing to the security guards, who searched me, x-rayed all of my stuff and then made a copy of my ID. This was one of the first times when I really became aware of the ever looming threat of terrorism here.

After I got the ok from security, I had to find my way to Augustin Arostegi's office. Spain does not start with floor 1, as we do in the US, but rather with floor 0. So Augustin was on the 2nd floor which means he's on what we would call the 3rd floor. This is vital information if you're deciding whether to use the elevator or get some extra exercise. I went for the elevator because I'm getting all the exercise I need carrying my equipment on flat surface. I followed signs to the Office of Tourism and External Relations, but signs suddenly stopped and I was lost in an elaborately decorated, vast hall. After walking around for a while, I found someone who showed me where Augustin's office was (the only office without a sign--even the copy room had a sign!). His was spacious and very modern, which was a nice juxtaposition to the traditional building. I was pretty impressed by the office and even more impressed that he has a secretary who brought us tea and coffee for the interview.

I was told to interview Augustin because he is the Director of Tourism and External Relations for the province of Gipuzkoa. He has a lot of experience with bilingualism and gave me a great interview. I asked him my basic questions about how he identifies himself, how he defines Basques and Spaniards, his thoughts on only teaching Euskera in schools (which is the case here) and other questions about bilingualism. So far I haven't gotten any trend responses. Some people are Basque first, then Spanish, while others are just Basque and still others identify themselves as more international citizens. The new question that has been getting some great responses seems kind of funny: What team were you rooting for in the EuroCup? I decided to ask this because I noticed how many people were cheering for Spain during EuroCup. Generally, most people here think of themselves as separate from Spain, but many of those same people were cheering for Spain to win. Augustin, on the other hand, said that he supported Italy, then Russia, then Germany--all the teams that played against Spain. I'm going to keep asking this question because it brings out another side that is sometimes hard to get at with these short interviews.

On Thursday, Marlee and I woke up at the crack of dawn to get catch a bus to Bilbao. I had an interview in the old part of town with Mertxe Mugika Balangzategi. She works at the headquarters for AEK, a network of euskaltegis (schools that teach Euskera to adults) that are in all 7 provinces of Basque Country (Spain and France). She apparently had a bad experience with a Wall Street Journal journalist so she was a bit apprehensive about doing an interview with me. Luckily, she, like everyone else I have interviewed, sees that see that I am hear to make a film that celebrates the cultures here, not criticize them. We had a short interview because she seemed a bit nervous in front of the camera. She spoke really rapidly and fidgeted  a bit, but she still had great responses and gave me even more people to contact.

After the interview I met up with Marlee and had lunch in the old city. We wanted to get a menu del dia at a restaurant, but they were either too boring or too pricy. We ended up going to Bocatta's, the Spanish version of a fastfood chain. They have hot and cold bocadillos (sandwiches on french baguettes) with your choice of fries or patatas bravas. The place had as much personality as your standard McDonald's, but the food was cheap and it filled us up.

After lunch we headed over to the Guggenheim Museum. I filmed a bit of the outside while Marlee was the designated photographer. When I was satisfied that I had gotten plenty of good angles, we dropped off the equipment inside and took a tour through the exhibits. They had some impressive installations and an interesting surrealist exhibit, but the whole museum was pretty small. We saw everything in a little over 2 hours without rushing at all. I enjoyed the museum, but I think the building itself is the most impressive artwork there.

The same artist who made The Puppy in front of the Guggenheim, Jeff Koonz, made these giant metallic tulips which are also on display at the Guggenheim. The Puppy is a really cool statue covered in plants. The people here call him "Poopy" because they can't pronounce "puppy." I know this has absolutely nothing to do with anything else, but it made me smile and I thought you might enjoy this bit of info as well.
On Friday I once again woke up really early to have an interview with Xabier Mediguren, the president of Kontseilua, a network of organizations which strive to promote Euskera. We were supposed to meet at a really swank hotel cafe downtown. I waited for half an hour (Spaniards are often a bit late) and he never showed up. I called his secretary, who called him and told me that he was travelling without his agenda and had forgotten. He was very apologetic and set up an interview for a few hours later in the same cafe. The next time I went to the cafe he was patiently waiting there for me. We found the brightest spot in the dim lounge of the ritzy hotel and ordered some drinks. We then proceeded to have one of the best interviews I've had so far. He shared personal experiences and facts about the number of Euskera speakers and the history of the region. He was excited and passionate about his work and goals, but not in any way closeminded. He talked solidly for an hour and gave me absolutely fantastic material. The only thing I'm concerned about is the music that was playing in the lounge. I haven't looked at the footage since I've filmed it and I'm a bit nervous that I might have to redo the interview if the music overshadows his voice. We'll see.

Xabier also told me that I should visit the town where he was born. It is a small town with lovely scenery and people who lead different lives than the people in the cities here. The house he grew up in is 400 years old and is now a museum (how cool is that?). His brother and her wife still live in the town and he gave me their phone number so I can go and interview them. I'm super psyched. I just have to figure out where the heck this town is and how do I get there.

On Saturday, Sam and Vas, 2 other IROPers, came to San Sebastian to visit. The weather was gross and rainy, but we managed to have a good time. The plan was for them to come to San Sebastian for a day then we would all head to San Fermin (the running of the bulls) in Pamplona for Sunday and Monday. Our first mission was to get the appropriate costume. You have to have a read bandana for your neck, a red sash for your waist and a completely white outfit. At first I thought that only the runners wore that, but EVERYONE wears it. And it can't be your best red and white because at the opening ceremony everyone throws champagne, wine, ketchup, mustard and flour on everyone else. Luckily the sales have started in all the stores here so it wasn't very expensive to equip ourselves. I then made it my mission to have San and Vas try as many Basque and Spanish things as I could. We started with my all time favorite dessert here, pastel vasco, which is a rich cake with creamy custard in the center. After that we headed into the old town to get some greasy bocadillos and some sidra. I went home and had a bit of a siesta while the boys climbed up one of the mounts to get a view of the city. That night we went out for pintxos and I made sure they tried all of the traditional dishes. It was a great night, but we had to cut it short because once again we had to get up early to catch a bus the next morning.

On Sunday we arrived in Pamplona to see the entire city decked out in red and white. Everyone in the city (save a few clueless tourists) was wearing the prescribed uniform. Even old grandparents and little babies had their bandanas and sashes. We got there in time for the chupinazo (the kickoff ceremony). The entire old part of the city was packed like a can of sardines. Marlee and I weren't very interested in getting covered in ketchup so we watched the boys huge backpack as they headed into the center of the madness. I thought we might be missing out, but I soon realized that there was plenty of party where we were as well. Below is a picture of people arriving and after that is a photo of everyone when the the ceremony began. We definitely weren't alone. Once they shot the rocket to start the fiesta everyone brought out bottles of champagne and sprayed them everywhere. The people next to us even gave us some to drink.

We met up with the boys later and continued to tour the city through the packed crowds. We were carrying a lot of food so we wouldn't have to buy anything, but it made it difficult to get around. We had a great time, but Marlee and I decided to go home that night because sleeping in a park seemed very unappealing and my voice seemed to be getting worse and worse.  We said good bye and good luck to the boy (who were planning on running the next morning with the bulls) and went home to our comfortable beds.

I ended up getting sick the next day with a bad sore throat and no voice. I slept the whole day and now my voice is slowly coming back 2 days later. The boys had  a great run and didn't get hurt. Now that I know what's going on at the fiesta I think I'm going to go back this weekend and film a bit. I really want to see the running of the bulls. I just gotta cover my camera in saran wrap so it won't get ruined in someone throws wine on me.