Wednesday, June 11, 2008

Rain, Rain, Go Away...

As many of you know, I've done a lot of research on the Basques. I probably drove you crazy with my multitude of fascinating Basque facts. Well, my research was somehow incomplete. Nowhere in all of the information I read did they mention that not only did the Basques withstand the Romans, Visigoths and Moors, they also withstood endless rain. I don't know how this can be a popular beach resort because it rains almost everyday and it's often overcast when it's not raining. I've been here for a week and half and I've had 1 day without rain. According to the locals, this is not uncommon. Only the Scottish girl who I met said it wasn't bad, but her frame of reference is a bit different from the rest of us. So the first rule I learned about living in San Sebastian (Donostia) is never, ever, ever leave the apartment without an umbrella (no matter how sunny it might be).


I'll work on posting more photos, but here's a start. This is the view from my new apartment. It's very "Rear Window."  I love it! My apartment is great and my flatmates, Sergio and Marisa are total sweethearts. I'm really enjoying it. And I think it must be working out for them too, because they offered to let me stay here for the 2nd month! Horray! No more apartment searching!

So beyond moving around from place to place, you're probably wondering what I'm doing here.
I forgot the pack a microphone when I came over here so I've been eagerly waiting for it to arrive. It got here on Thursday so now I'm all set and ready to film. I took a quick trip to Madrid to visit my friend Rosemary and saw a running of the bulls. I'm going to check out the one in Pamplona, but after seeing these bulls run, I don't think I'm going to actually go in the ring. Madrid was beautiful and sunny ( a nice change of pace) and gave me an opportunity to talk with a Spaniard in Madrid about the Basque situation. He had no tolerance for the Basque autonomous movement and has refused to go the the Basque Country because of the movement. It was a gentle reminder to me that I'm researching a subject that people here are very passionate about and I need to tread lightly.

I've been scouting good locations to film pretty scenery and buildings to show a bit of what Basque Country is like. I want to make sure I know the good spots because the camera is heavy and not fun to carry up a mountain just to find out there's no good view. So yesterday I climbed up the small mountain/large hill on the side of San Sebastian to survey the scene. It's amazing. Had it not been completely hazy and gray, it would have been an unbelievable shot. Next time we have a sunny day (if ever) I will hike up there again to get a nice shot of the city and coast.

Though exploring the territory and getting settled has been fun, I want to film some people. I emailed all the Euskaltegis in the area (schools that teach Euskera) and got no responses. I'm starting to see that emailing here doesn't do much. So I have been going to the Euskaltegis in person to talk with people. Most of them were pretty quick interactions where they told me they have to talk to other people at the school and they'll get back to me. So I have a bit of waiting to do. The director of one of the schools was really excited about my project. He gave me the names of the heads of 3 big Basque groups that work on language promotion, Basque culture and politics. He also told me about a big meeting happening next week where all the important Basque sociolinguistic experts and officials will be. I need to get an invitation to go, but I have the number of the guy with all the right connections, so I think it will happen. I called the contacts the director gave me today and I'm going to have to do a bit more waiting. A few people said they'll get back to me and one lady said she'd let me interview her next month. So I have a meeting! This is good.

I also have a meeting this weekend with a woman from Donostia who I met through Rosemary. I get to film her this weekend and she's going to help me get more interviews with some of her friends. I'm wicked excited! She grew up under Franco so she was not allowed to speak Euskera when she was young. She is know trying to learn it. I think my interview with her is going to be really interesting.

So now I have a few more people to call, and a bit more waiting to do. I really need to get this going...

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